The Marrakesh medina is an Instagram heaven. At popular spots I had to wait my turn, like a carnival ride, to snap a picture. But even in lesser-known corners, there were palm tree gardens, tile mosaics, arched doors and red alleys waiting to be found.
The souks are a maze, but they’re not impossible to navigate by yourself as tour guides would have you believe. The souks are packed side by side and nearly all set up specifically for tourists, so if you even bent your head a few degrees to the side, there would be a man trying to catch your gaze and immediately, and aggressively, try to sell you a pouf or rug or bag or shoes. It’s best to wear sunglasses.
As a foreigner who came to appreciate the history and beauty of the medina, I wanted to enjoy walking casually and freely down the windy streets. The constant pressure to buy something, however, ruined the experience a bit, as did the behavior of certain young men. True to what I had read in online forums, a few lied to me to try to trick me in going with them down the wrong street to reach such-and-such museum, while others shouted rude comments at me while I walked by. I could expect to encounter some sort of harassment every day.
Yet there were gems in the rough. My riad in the northwest part of the medina, Riad Adore, was hosted by excellent men and women managers, and it was elegantly decorated in dusty blue woodwork and black lanterns. I met a rug and pouf seller who was calm and patient as he served me sweetened mint tea from a little table on three peg legs. Other young men at restaurants and boutiques kept a respectful distance. And of course, there was plenty to appreciate in the intricate handiwork of Islamic architecture, the dress of the Berbers and the flavorful couscous tajines.
Google maps isn’t 100% accurate for all the locations of specific shops or hotels, but the cartography of the streets is good enough that it’s definitely possible to venture out on your own. Because if you do, you might find other little treasures beyond the usual tourist stalls, such as an old man selling racks of raffia woven shoes. I bought a red pair.
What to do:
I’ve grouped my favorite tourist attractions here by architecture, style of dress and gardens. (It depends on what Instagram-worthy shot you’re looking for!) Quite a few can be done together in one day. I don’t think you need to book a tour guide. I did all of these on my own via walking or taxi.
Architecture: Interior décor, history of the wealthy elites
Musée de Marrakech: Tiled, ornamented interiors and courtyards
Palais Bahia: Stunning colors of calligraphy and tilework, gardens and plazas
Style of dress: Berber history, fashion costumes
Maison de la Photographie: Historic black and white photos of Berber women and life
Le Musée Berber: Thoughtful, detailed collections of Berber jewelry and dress
Musée Yves Saint Laurent: Curation of sketches, jewelry and gowns inspired by the fashion designer’s time in Morocco
Gardens: Palms and water fountains
Le Jardin Secret: Not big, but pleasant gardens and an explanation of the khettara water aquifer system and its symbolism in Islam
Le Jardin Majorelle: Next to YSL Museum and the Berber Museum. Amalgamation of desert plants and bright blue and yellow architecture